Norman Norell Coat

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UndoneMrs

Registered Guest
Hi all, I bought this Norman Norell coat today, a great resale shop find, my first Norell piece !! I was wondering if this coat probably went with a skirt suit ? and how the satin tie belt supposed to sit. The blue is a wool gaberdine ? and the cream part is silk satin. I'm thinking this is 60s. Many thanks !
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According to the label resource Norman Norell started his label in 1960 and after his death in 1972, the label changed to "Norman Norell by Tassell" after that (and closed in 1976) so it seems that it's safe to date it as '60s, especially if it lacks any other labels. An early '70s would probably have care and fabric labels.

It's a stylish jacket, I agree that it might have had a matching skirt originally - they often lose their skirts because the skirt gets worn more.

Nicole
 
it's beautiful! i agree, it's 60s, and it's a jacket (not coat) that undoubtedly was part of a suit. you have the tie on right. this is a riff on a men's smoking jacket, design-wise.

great find :)
 
Ever the trouble maker here... I think its more 1969-71 and had white satin trousers with it. THe really wide lapel and the short jacket with a belt strike me as later features. If it were earlier 60s the jacket would be longer, beltless and from the Norell I have handled, almost always collarless, or with small collars. This looks like it was influenced by YSL's Le Smoking, which came out in 66. You see more mannish tailored items after that in the late 60s - early 70s. Care labels with universal symbols come out in 1971? I think it is, so maybe c. 1969/1970 on this?
 
Nothing of value to add except I was struggling to picture this with a skirt. The suggestion of pants would make an amazing outfit. Now I want the whole outfit!

A really great coat. Congrats on your find!
 
Thanks so much everyone ! I was struggling to picture a skirt with this too, I WANT THOSE SATIN TROUSERS !!!!!!
It does look very 'le smoking.' Many thanks to all !
 
Okay - I just saw a photo of the full length version of this jacket in American Couture, page 404?. It is referred to as one of Norell's "bathrobe coats" and the one shown is from his 1970 collection, which was his last.

And from the looks of that collection, I think formal, straight leg pants or a long, straight satin skirt may have been the ticket.

Hollis
 
Many thanks Hollis ! I'd love to see it but I'm having trouble finding that book, is the title "American Couture" ? I'd love to see the photo !
 
Sorry! I got the title confused. It;s out of print, but used copies are available on Amazon. Here it is:

American Fashion: The Life and Lines of Adrian, Mainbocher, McCardell, Norell, and Trigere
 
I highly recommend this book! I ordered it YESTERDAY and it arrived today. There were several used copies available on amazon and I purchased it from a seller in Hawaii. He hand delivered it. I wasn't home but DH received it. It was wrapped and the return address was in my town!!!!

I have not had a chance to "read" it but I did thumb through the section on Adrian and I looked at the Norell bathrobe coat on p. 404. This book is going to give me hours and hours of reading pleasure.

Thanks, Hollis!!!

Linn
 
My I suggest for all those who want the satin pants. Now is a good time to learn to sew. Yes, you could even make pull-on pants with an elastic waist. They would be 70s style but you could make them quickly and wear your new outfit for Christmas. Claire
 
Rebecca McNamara said:
Came across this thread while researching a floor-length bathrobe coat (like the one in American Fashion [1975]). If anyone is still interested in learning more about the jacket version, this sketch from the New School Archives Digital Collections might be a match (or near-match): http://digitalarchives.library.newschool.edu/index.php/Detail/objects/KA0035_000222.
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That definitely looks like a match - he is showing both a round and notched collar in his sketch, and of course they have the wrong circa on it, but otherwise, that looks like the sketch.
 
Jonathan said:
That definitely looks like a match - he is showing both a round and notched collar in his sketch, and of course they have the wrong circa on it, but otherwise, that looks like the sketch.
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Jonathan - Why do you think the date on the New School website to be incorrect? Circa 1965 seems right to me based on other research I've done on Norell's "bathrobe" coats and smoking suits in this style.
 
Sorry, didn't notice the earlier question. It has that casual styling that begins to show up the mid 60s, but the wide lapel and sash belt are post YSL's Le Smoking suit of 1966, which I suspect inspired this Norell design. If the lapel was narrower and there was no belt I could see it being more 1965, but that wide sash belt is very post 1968, as is the wide lapel. It looks more 1970ish to me too.
 
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