Schiaparelli Label

[crushvintage]

Hi!
Was wondering if you could help out with dating a lovely Schiaparelli knit beaded dress and coat?
Many Thanks!
Tina

 

[Pinkcoke]

It's between 1950's and 1960's (leaning toward the latter), very nice!

 

[PersonalPursuits]

Beautiful dress set! I agree with Melanie, it looks like it is from the early 1960's.

 

[Rue_de_la_Paix]

I have only seen that label on lingerie. It looks a bit odd for an evening dress. Not sure, but is it original to the dress?

 

[crushvintage]

Oh! I am not sure. It is sewn into the coat only, there is no label on the matching dress.
It is sewn on with the same thread used in the beading next to it.
This came from an estate of a wealthy women who shopped at high end stores with designer labels.
Is there a way to determine whether the label is original?

 

[Pinkcoke]

I did wonder at the sheer label, normally dress/coat labels are quite robust satin.

 

[Circa Vintage Clothing]

I agree with Barbara - I have only seen that label on lingerie. I also agree that the set is '60s. I would be looking very carefully at the stitching and thread to see if it was original - and to see if there was any evidence of a missing label on the dress. These beaded items were generally made in Hong Kong.

 

[claireshaeffer]

Is the beading appliqued onto the garments or beaded directly? The inside of the coat looks like the former.

 

[Circa Vintage Clothing]

They look appliqued to me, Claire.

 

[joules]

Highly suspect, that label on this set.

 

[crushvintage]

Claire, the dress is beaded directly, while the coat is appliqued. Both are super heavy...at least 3 lbs. each!
Nicole, the thread on the label is the same as the thread used on the appliqued beadwork on the coat. Don't see any evidence of a label on the dress.
And we researched the sheer label, and couldn't find any pictures of it either!

 

[Pinkcoke]

I just looked at all the schiaparelli listings I could find on ebay UK & US (current & completed) and agree with Barbara & Nicole that the sheer label only appears on lingerie, which is usually made of a similar sheer fabric.

 

[joules]

It could be that little lengths of thread were pulled from the stitching, securing the appliqués, in order to tack down the lingerie label. That would account for the thread being the same.

 

[crushvintage]

Thanks to everyone for their input and knowledge!
It is so great to have such a resource at my fingertips!
Tina/Crush Vintage

 

[claireshaeffer]

Tina, sorry to be so slow getting back to this. Generally, the beading would have been done directly on the coat also.

That said when I visited the workrooms at Lesage in the early 80s, they were making small motifs--lipstick, logos, etc.--for Chanel. Lagerfeld had asked for these saying he didn't know how they would be used. Later, I saw the motifs on a houndstooth rtw jacket. My guess is that Schiaparelli would not have used appliques. This is a good research question for me when I visit a museum next time.

Thank you for presenting the outfit. C

 

[poppysvintageclothing]

This looks to me more like a very well made double knit wool outfit with beaded appliques that was most likely made either in Hong Kong or Italy.