Vintage Pendleton Coat

RustySpurVintage

RustySpurVintage

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Hi, All. I have this nice Pendleton unlined, plaid, wool men's coat that was purchased at an estate sale in eastern Oregon. It does have a lined yoke, but the label does not include any sizing info (and obviously no wool mark). My research says that this dates this jacket to around the 30s or 40s. The lapels make me think 1940s. Is there a Pendleton expert here that may know how to date this with some more certainty? (I've found Pendleton coats with no wool mark and very similar styling in the past, but the lapels were smaller and there was sizing info on the label.)
 

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Nice. Thanks! So that definitely dates this label pre-1960 (though the absence of a wool mark already put it at pre-1964). Vintage Traveler is definitely an expert. I'll see if I can find when this label was first used.
 
DadamFo said:
So that definitely dates this label pre-1960 (though the absence of a wool mark already put it at pre-1964).
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The example of this label Ikranieri found advertised was the first instance she could find of it being used, which indicated this jacket could be 1959 or later. The absence of a wool mark does not rule out a post 1964 dating either. It was popular to use it around it's introduction but that has waned somewhat, although some companies still use it today, - it is not a requirement to use the mark.
I think I have determined that Pendleton first trademarked this name in 1949 from this Trademark entry: http://tess2.uspto.gov/bin/showfield?f=doc&state=4806:mkdt3d.4.108

I see this jacket as from the 1960s/70s for a few reasons; first I have seen this pocket 'formation' on a lot of coats and jackets from the 1960's. Always that size (slightly bigger than average) that postition and often with a the pattern at 90 degrees from the main body.
Although the pointed collar was indeed around in the 40's/50's it comes around again in the 70's.
Baby blue and brown are very 60's/70's colours.
The lining fabric is also of a type I have seen and handled from late 1960's to 1970's mens jackets. It looks like acetate though you could do a burn test to find out.
Those leather? football buttons were also common on 1960's/70s jackets. (incidentally can we see the back of these?)
I believe, as a 'hand tailored' garment this could have been home made with the fabric and label purchased from a store - as such it would not have a fabric content or care label.

You can see an example of another VFG member's Pendleton jacket with a similar label (without wool mark, or R, in this case) here that we know to be at least 1970s from the extensive material content labelling.
 
I'm a big fan of the old wool plaid shirts!

Here's a link to a discussion on Pendleton labels from the head of the menswear division at Pendleton.
https://www.facebook.com/notes/pendleton-menswear/pendleton-menswear-labels/382834033348

His discussion of when they used the woolmark on men's shirts is especially interesting.

regarding blue tag w/o woolmark or size
if you have a Pendleton shirt with no lining and one of these tags, I’d say you’re looking at the 30s or possibly 40s. We didn’t make many shirts during WWII as most of our resources were funneled into blankets for the troops.
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regarding shirts from 50s/60s
There is a size box on the label—this is a change from the previous decades, and dates the shirt to the fifties or sixties.
Also, this shirt has a yoke lining,
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It's interesting that a label w/o wool mark or size is on a yoke lined shirt. I wonder if the label on your jacket was original to this shirt?
 
I think the label is one that came with the purchase of Pendleton fabric rather than an item made by Pendleton. That explains the lack of size and the handstitching on the label. We recently saw this same label and it did not have the wool-mark label either. Fabric stores could have had a supply of labels that lasted them long past 1964 when Pendleton added the Woolmark.

Are the buttons actually leather, or are they molded plastic made to look like leather?

I too think that this is probably from the 1970s.
 
I love Pendleton and have a bit of a collection I wear! I have this exact shirt jacket in a light weight wool plaid, leather buttons and nylon upper shoulder lining. Mine has the same diagonal plaid patch pockets, however my collar and lapel are narrower and both pointed whereas yours has a very long collar points and rounded lapel. My label is sized, with wool mark sign and has a dry clean only tag. My label is neatly zigzagged on the lining only on the short sides and the top and bottom are open. Because I bought my shirt at a thrift in the late 80s it is either from late 70s to the the time I bought it I imagine. It is so hard to date some of these shirts! Your shirt does look a little older than mine as far as the label and style. Lizzie, interesting insight on the labels. I didn't know one could get them but I did know fabric was available for sewing.

Edited to add, after looking, my shirt has the 70s "Warranted to be a Pendleton" label as far as I can tell. Also depending on how the collar area lays it is actually wider and more 70s style, but I think mine is late 70s early 80s for what that's worth. Yours, I agree with 70s also.

Julia
 
Thank, everyone! I have some jackets with this almost exact same styling that I'm pretty sure are from the 1960s. This label combined with the collar, however, through me for a loop with this coat. Great info all around from everyone. I am especially glad to know about the registered trademark symbol being intruded in 1948. Also, the label dating discussion with the archivist at Pendleton was wonderful! Thanks again to everyone! Definitely thinking 70s.
 
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